Photo by Damir Khabirov / Shutterstock.com Damir Khabirov / Shutterstock.com This story originally appeared on Smartest Dollar. Since 2012, student loans have had the highest delinquency rate of any form of consumer debt. And while recent data from the New … Continue reading →
It’s never a good feeling when you notice that your credit score has dropped. You might feel confused or concerned, and you would probably wonder why your credit score took a dip. Let’s explore some of the possible reasons that could cause your credit score to decline.
Your average of accounts decreased because of a new account.
As we’ve written about many times in the articles in our Knowledge Center, the age of a tradeline is extremely important, as is your overall credit age. This is because credit age is linked to payment history, which is vitally important to your credit health.
Payment history makes up 35% of your credit score and credit age contributes 15% to your score. When you add the two together, you get 50%, which means that half of your credit score is controlled by these two connected factors.
Within the credit age category, your average age of accounts is thought to be one of the most important variables. The more age your tradelines have, the more they can benefit your credit. Therefore, anytime you decrease your average age of accounts, you run the risk of your score decreasing as a result.
So if you recently opened a new primary tradeline or if you were added as an authorized user to an account that lacks age, the decrease in your average age of accounts might be what’s behind your credit score troubles.
Your account balances increased.
Did you use credit to make a large purchase recently? Have you been accumulating more debt by not paying the full balance you charged each month? If either of these scenarios is true for you, that could explain why your credit score took a dive.
As your account balances increase, so does your credit utilization rate. This is bad news for your credit score since credit utilization contributes about 30% of your score.
If you’ve been using your credit card more often without paying it off entirely each month, that could be the source of the change in your credit score.
Low utilization is favorable since it indicates that you are not overextending yourself financially. On the other hand, high utilization shows that you are using a lot of your available credit, which means you are statistically more likely to default on a debt in the future. For this reason, high credit utilization is penalized by credit scoring models.
Fortunately, there are many strategies you can use to overcome the problem of high revolving credit utilization, such as pre-paying your credit card bill before your statement closing date, making more frequent payments throughout the month, increasing your credit limit, or getting a balance transfer card.
When you open a new account, it can hurt your credit score for a few reasons. The first and most important reason is that the account has no age, which means it is going to negatively affect your average age of accounts.
In addition, there was likely a hard inquiry on your credit report as a result of applying for the new loan. In “Are Inquiries Really Killing Your Credit? What You Need to Know,” each recent hard inquiry on your report may affect your credit score by up to five points.
The new account may also have a negative impact on the “new credit” portion of your credit score. Having new credit makes you look like a riskier borrower, which means it could slightly reduce your score.
However, new credit only makes up about 10% of your credit score, so the impact of opening one new account would likely be relatively small and it would diminish over time.
You applied for credit but your application was denied.
Applying for a loan or credit card, whether your application is approved or denied, the resulting hard inquiry could damage your credit score slightly.
As we just mentioned, when you apply for credit, the lender usually has to do a hard pull (AKA a hard inquiry) on your credit report to see if you qualify.
This doesn’t always result in a new credit account being opened. Sometimes, for example, your credit application might get rejected by the lender, or perhaps you may choose to decline the terms you were offered and not proceed with opening the account. (Note, however, that when you apply for a credit card, typically the account is automatically opened when you get approved for the card.)
Unfortunately, even if you didn’t actually end up opening a new account, the fact that you applied for credit can still hurt your score. The hard inquiry still goes on your credit report whether you opened an account with that lender or not.
If you only applied for one account, then your credit score will likely only fall by a few points, if at all. If you applied for several accounts that you didn’t open within the past year, however, it’s possible that you could see a bigger dip in your score as a result of all of those inquiries on your report.
You missed a payment once or twice.
You might think that missing a payment here and there is not that big of a deal, but in reality, it can wreak havoc on your credit score. Recall that payment history is the most important factor contributing to your credit score, weighing in at 35% of your FICO score.
If you are 30 days late on making a payment even one time, this can have a significant detrimental effect on your credit, dropping your score by as much as 60 to 110 points.
If you still fail to make your payment by the following due date, then you get a 60-day late on your credit report, which hurts your credit even more.
30-day and 60-day lates are both considered minor derogatory items on your credit report, so they won’t mess up your credit as much as a major derogatory item.
However, if you get a 60-day late payment added to your credit report, do your best to catch up on payments before another 30 days pass, which is when things get even worse.
You missed a payment for three months in a row or more.
Missing a payment even once can seriously set back your credit score, but the damage will be even worse the longer you put off bringing the account current.
Once you reach 90 days past due on a credit account, that is now considered a major derogatory item, which is the worst possible type of item to have on your credit report. (Other major derogatory items include charge-offs, collections, foreclosures, settlements, judgments, repossessions, public records, and bankruptcies.)
Having a 90-day late on your credit report is certainly going to have a negative impact on your credit. A credit score drop from a major derogatory item will be even more severe and more difficult to recover from than that of a minor derogatory item. In addition, the major derogatory item could scare away potential lenders, making it harder to obtain credit in the future.
If you default on a debt, meaning you did not fulfill your obligations to repay that debt, your creditor can sell your account to a collection agency, who will then try to collect the debt from you. A collection account is also a major derogatory item on your credit report, which means it can seriously hurt your score if you have an account go into collections.
You applied for multiple credit cards in a short period of time.
Applying for multiple credit cards results in hard inquiries on your credit report, which can have a more significant impact on your score than just one inquiry.
Having too many hard inquiries on your credit report in a short period of time indicates that you are seeking a lot of new credit, which is a bad sign to lenders, and it will bring down your score.
With most credit scoring models, inquiries for credit cards are all counted separately, even if they were all around the same time. Since inquiries can each cost your credit score up to five points, that can add up quickly. (The exception to this is the VantageScore credit score, which counts all inquiries made within a 14-day window of each other as one inquiry, regardless of the type of account.)
Furthermore, if you got approved for and opened all of the accounts that you applied for, then you could also end up with too many new credit accounts on your credit report.
One of your credit cards was closed.
Many consumers mistakenly believe the credit myth that it will help their credit if they close some of their accounts. In a way, that makes sense, because it lowers the amount of available credit you have, which reduces the potential amount of debt you could get into if you were to use all of your available credit.
However, that is not how credit scores work, because unfortunately, credit scores don’t always make sense.
The truth is that closing an account almost always hurts your credit instead of helping it.
With revolving accounts, such as credit cards, closing an account reduces your total credit limit by removing the credit limit of that card. When you reduce your credit limit, that action increases your overall credit utilization ratio, meaning that you are now using a larger fraction of your available credit.
This hurts your credit score because having a high credit utilization ratio is penalized by the credit scoring algorithms, whereas maintaining a low utilization ratio is rewarded.
The worst-case scenario for your credit when closing an account is if the account is closed while it still has a balance on it. In this case, that individual account will look like it is maxed out or over the limit because it has a balance but no credit limit. That alone is enough to significantly harm your credit, and the increase to your overall utilization ratio only worsens the problem.
Depending on what else is in your credit file, closing a credit card could also negatively affect your credit mix, which could result in a small credit score drop.
On the plus side, the reason why an account was closed does not play a role in your score, so you won’t be affected more negatively if the card was closed by the issuer than if it was closed at your request.
Have you checked your credit card statements lately?
An unexpected decrease in your credit score could be the result of fraudulent activity on your accounts.
If you see any charges on your statement that you do not recognize, then it could be fraudulent activity that is bringing down your score. Perhaps someone was able to obtain your credit card information by phishing or through a data breach and used it to run up the balance on the card.
It’s important to monitor your credit accounts regularly so that you can catch any suspicious activity early on. Better yet, set up email or mobile notifications on your account that will alert you to fraudulent activity instantly.
If a criminal does manage to get access to your account, report the fraudulent charges to your credit card issuer immediately and ask to have the charges reversed. Most credit card companies have a zero liability policy, which means you won’t be held responsible for paying for any of the fraudulent charges.
You paid less than the minimum payment.
If your cash flow is tight, it can be tempting to send the bank or credit card company a partial payment instead of the full amount that is due that month. You may think that it’s not as big of a deal as not paying at all, because at least you are sending them some of the money.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way. If you do not cover the full minimum payment by the due date, it will not be counted as an on-time payment.
If you can bring the account current before 30 days pass, you may still have to deal with a late fee from your credit card issuer (although it’s worth asking them to waive the fee), but at least the late payment will not show up on your credit report.
On the other hand, if you do not make a sufficient payment and 30 days go by, then you will have a late payment pop up on your credit report, which can definitely take a toll on your credit score.
To prevent this from happening, as soon as you know you will not be able to make the full payment, contact your credit card issuer and ask if they have a financial hardship program or try to negotiate an arrangement with them that allows you to pay what you can without damaging your credit.
You didn’t use your credit card for a long time.
Your credit card issuer might have closed your account if it had been inactive for a long time.
If you don’t use a credit card for a long period of time, it’s possible that your credit card issuer may decide to close your account due to the lack of activity.
As we discussed above, a closed credit card is bad news for your credit since the loss of available credit hurts your credit utilization and it may also damage your mix of credit.
According to The Balance, the credit card company is not required to give you advance notice if they plan to close your account, so it’s best to take proactive measures to prevent this from happening.
To avoid having your card closed due to inactivity, make sure you use it to make a purchase at least once every few months. An easy way to do this is to use the credit card to pay for a subscription service that renews each month. Then, set up automatic bill payments on your credit card and the whole process will be automated.
You finished paying off an installment loan.
Making the final payment on your auto loan, student loans, or mortgage is an exciting accomplishment. Yet, when you finish paying off an installment loan, your credit score may decrease instead of increase.
Even though you now have less debt, which sounds like it would help your credit score, this may not outweigh the negative impact to your mix of credit. The paid-off installment loan will now report as a closed account, which can be harmful to your credit if all you have left is a few revolving accounts.
@LizOfficer shared a real-life example of this on Twitter.
This Twitter user commented that paying off her loan made her credit score go down since it affected her mix of credit.
An account that you are piggybacking on became delinquent.
Sometimes being an authorized user on a credit card or having a joint account can be a risky thing. You are relying on the other person to pay their bills on time and to manage their balances well, otherwise their behavior can compromise your credit.
In other words, an ideal tradeline should have a low utilization ratio, it should have a higher age than your average age of accounts and your oldest account, and most importantly, it needs to have a perfect payment history.
Therefore, you want to avoid being added as an authorized user to a tradeline that has any derogatory marks on it so that those derogatory items don’t get added to your credit file and end up damaging your credit.
That’s the danger of piggybacking on a friend or family member’s credit card—even if the tradeline is perfect when you are first added to it, there’s no guarantee that it will stay that way.
If your authorized user tradeline does get any missed payments on its record, that could definitely hurt your credit, and it would be smart to remove yourself from it immediately. To do so, simply call the credit card issuer and request to be removed from the account, as most banks allow you to do this without needing to go through the primary account holder.
Delinquency on the part of the primary account holder can cause problems if you are piggybacking on someone else’s credit account.
You declared bankruptcy.
Bankruptcy is one of the worst things you can have on your credit report. Since declaring bankruptcy essentially means you are asking to be released from the legal obligation to repay your debts, it shows lenders that you have an extremely high risk of defaulting in the future, so it can have a severe negative impact on your credit score.
There are inquiries on your credit file that you did not authorize.
Unauthorized inquiries on your credit file can unfairly drag down your credit. In our article on credit inquiries, we reported that each hard inquiry on your credit report can potentially cost you up to five points each.
Fortunately, you have the right to dispute any hard inquiries on your credit report that you did not authorize. You can learn more about the credit dispute process in “How to Fix the Most Common Credit Report Errors.”
Your credit file got merged with someone else’s.
Sometimes inaccurate information can get on your credit report not as a result of fraud or because your lender reported it incorrectly, but because your credit file accidentally became mixed with the information of another person.
This is called a “mixed credit file” or “mixed credit report” and it usually occurs with two consumers who have similar names.
If the credit history of the other consumer with whom your file has been mixed contains negative information, that would obviously be detrimental to your score, and you would need to correct the situation by filing a dispute with the credit bureau.
This is an example of why it’s important to check your credit report regularly. If there is incorrect information on your credit report that should be removed, you don’t want to find out about it when you’re trying to apply for credit. You need to catch and correct credit report mistakes early so that they don’t stand in the way of you achieving your financial goals.
You maxed out one or more of your credit cards.
Credit utilization makes up nearly a third of your FICO score, which means it’s critically important to keep your utilization low if you want to maintain a high credit score. Maxing out even just one credit card can have a significant negative impact, and if you max out multiple cards, you’ll be even worse off.
An account on your credit report that you don’t recognize could be an account that someone else fraudulently opened in your name.
We already covered how opening a new account can negatively affect your credit initially, but don’t forget that the same thing can happen if someone else uses your name to sign up for a new account.
If you see that your credit score has decreased, take a look at the inquiries and accounts on your credit report to see if there are any items that should not be there.
You have “double jeopardy” with collection accounts on your credit report.
Debt collection agencies are not known to be the most trustworthy entities and often do not have the best practices when it comes to keeping track of debts and contacting consumers. Information often gets lost or misrecorded when it is transferred between creditors and sometimes numerous collection agencies.
Because of this, some consumers find themselves with more than one entry for the same open collection account on their credit report, which is known as “double jeopardy.”
While the same collection may be listed multiple times due to the account changing hands, only the entity who currently owns the debt should be reporting the account as open.
Fortunately, if a collection is being reported in error, you can dispute the inaccurate information and have the information be corrected or potentially removed altogether.
Your credit report says you missed a payment even though you paid on time.
Dispute any mistakenly reported late payments so that they don’t unfairly affect your credit score.
Since payment history is the most important factor in your credit score, an incorrectly reported missed payment could severely damage your credit, especially if you are starting with very good credit. The higher your score to begin with, the more you stand to lose from a credit mistake.
This type of situation is another example that demonstrates why it’s so crucial to regularly check your credit report. If you always made all of your payments on time, you might assume that you must have a spotless credit record, only to find out at an inconvenient time that a creditor has been incorrectly reporting that you missed a payment.
Keep an eye out for errors like this on your credit report so that you can dispute them right away.
Your credit card issuer reduced your credit limit.
Sometimes, credit card issuers lower the credit limits of their cardholders, even for those who have consistently managed their accounts responsibly.
Unfortunately, they are usually allowed to do this without asking for your permission or letting you know in advance, so it may come as a nasty surprise when you swipe your credit card and get declined, or when your credit score takes a dive because your credit utilization is suddenly much higher.
There are a few reasons why your bank may reduce your credit limit, such as the following:
Credit card issuers sometimes cut credit card limits, which hurts your credit utilization ratio.
Your balances have been increasing, which indicates that you are taking on more debt and might be at a greater risk of defaulting. You missed a payment and your account becomes delinquent. Your account was inactive because you did not use your credit card enough. The economy is down and lenders want to minimize their risk exposure levels.
Regardless of why your credit limit took a hit, the result is the same: with less available credit, your credit utilization increases, which is bad for your score.
If your credit card issuer slashed your credit limit, check out “How to Increase Your Credit Limit” for some useful tips, and don’t be afraid to give your bank a call to ask them to reconsider.
A collection account was deleted from your credit report.
Surprisingly, it is actually possible that getting a collection account removed from your credit report could make your credit score go down instead of up.
By removing a collection account from your credit report, it is possible that you could move from one bucket into another bucket where your score will now be calculated differently. As a result of this new algorithm being applied to your credit report, your score could turn out to be lower than it was when you were in the first bucket.
You haven’t used any credit in a long time.
If you have used credit in the past but not recently, some of your old accounts may have fallen off of your credit report altogether. Accounts that are closed or inactive do not stay on your credit report forever. Positive accounts will generally stay on your credit report for 10 years, whereas negative accounts may stay on your credit report for up to 7 years.
When these old accounts age off of your credit report, you lose all of the credit history associated with them, the most important of which is the payment history. Because you are losing valuable credit history, your score could take a hit.
Those with thin credit files or those who have not used credit in several years will need to focus on building credit in order for their credit score to recover.
Conclusions
When it comes to your credit score, minor fluctuations are normal, so there’s generally no need to fret about losing a few points here and there.
If you are practicing good credit habits and paying all of your bills on time, it’s probably not necessary to watch your credit like a hawk and check your score every single week, and a change of a few points in either direction should not cause you to panic.
However, as we have seen, you don’t want to neglect your credit entirely, since mistakes can and do happen.
In addition, keep in mind that credit moves can sometimes have unexpected results, particularly in cases where you may be migrating from one credit scoring “bucket” to another.
If you see a significant drop in your credit score, that is definitely worth investigating further so that you can understand why it happened, address the issue, and hopefully get some of those credit score points back.
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For most people, 2020 has been a challenging year. From the COVID-19 pandemic to the subsequent recession to the many unprecedented political and cultural events, this year has been one for the history books. While most are hoping that 2021 is nothing like 2020, the reality is that the future is uncertain.
As you think ahead to 2021—and having a clean slate in the new year—financial goals may be your top priority. Here are some tips for making realistic financial goals and reaching them, so that 2021 can be a major “bounce back” year for you.
Basic Rules for Goal Setting
You may have heard of the SMART goal system, but here’s a reminder. Goals should be:
Specific Measurable Attainable Relevant Time-Bound
We’re focusing on the “A” for attainable, but you will want to keep all of these in mind as you create goals. If you create an attainable goal—meaning that it is realistic and manageable—but you fail to put a time parameter on the goal, then it may not be very effective. Similarly, a goal could be realistic but not very specific. This could mean that you wouldn’t even be able to say with certainty that you completed your goal because it was not clearly defined. You get the idea—just keep this SMART system in mind and make sure each individual goal meets all the criteria.
What makes a goal realistic or “attainable”?
To be a realistic goal, the goal needs to be within reach. However, don’t fall for the temptation of thinking that only easy goals are realistic. It’s actually very important that you set goals that will motivate you, and very easy goals often are not motivating. On the other hand, you do not want to set a goal that is too difficult to complete, because that may not be realistic and could lead to burnout. You are really looking for the sweet spot of something that is challenging but not so difficult that you have a high likelihood of failure. When setting a realistic goal, it may be helpful to do the following:
Ask yourself if this is a relatively small or large goal. Is it short-term or long-term? For larger and long-term goals, you will need to make sub-goals, which are milestones along the way. Research your proposed goal. Can you find stories or data about other people who have achieved the same goal? If no one has ever accomplished it before, then it may not be realistic. Assess your starting point. Even if you know a goal is achievable, make sure that it is achievable from your starting point. Find what motivates you. Motivation is the secret sauce when it comes to goal setting and goal achievement. When you’re motivated, you can do more than when you’re not. Use motivation to set harder goals than you would otherwise, but you also need to find ways to stay motivated as you work toward your goal.
Tips for Financial Goals
There are some specific strategies available that can help you achieve your financial goals. After all, financial goals are some of the most common new year’s resolutions. These include, paying off debt, building an emergency fund, and saving for a specific expense like college or homeownership. Using these strategies can help ensure you don’t fall short of whatever goal you set.
These are not sophisticated strategies by any means, either. Instead, think of them as basic habits you will need to implement in order to maintain financial success and stability
Budget Before, During, and After
We can’t overstate the importance of budgeting. When it comes to achieving your goals, your budget will be the ultimate road map. Hopefully, you already have a budget. If so, that will give you a clear “starting point.” But if not, the important thing is to maintain a budget moving forward.
A good budgeting system will give you a real-time way to check in on how you’re doing. Are you staying within your spending constraints in various categories? Has your income picked up or dropped off? Where do you need to cut back, or where can you put extra funds when your income changes? A good budget holds the answers to all of these questions.
Save as Much as Possible
Many, if not all, financial goals involve saving to different degrees. The more you save, the more flexibility you will have and the more purchase power you will have. Take a critical look now at the categories in your budget to see where you can make cuts. Every extra dollar you save will be an extra dollar toward your financial goals.
Have an Emergency Fund
Building on the previous point, it is important to build an emergency savings fund equal to six months’ expenses or more. You will want to do this as soon as possible, so it may even be your first major financial goal. Given all the economic uncertainty around us, this step can provide much needed stability.
Assess Your Credit
Many goals also involve credit health, directly or indirectly. Having good credit is an important piece of your financial puzzle. Remember that you can review your report for free at annualcreditreport.com. You should do this frequently to track your progress and ensure your reports are accurate.
Have Accountability
It is easier to stick to a plan when you have someone supporting you along the way. Find a trusted relative or friend with whom you can be open about your finances and goals. Ideally, this would be someone who has already achieved the goals you are working on, or who is on a successful financial path themselves.
Good Luck Achieving Your Goals!
Remember to make SMART goals. A major factor is that your goals should be attainable, which means they should be realistic and manageable for you. By implementing some basic financial strategies and habits, you will be well on your way. If you’d like help with your financial goals, particularly with credit or debt, learn more about credit counseling or get started today.
If you’re like most Americans, you probably have more debt than you would like to have. Almost 60% of Americans say they feel “weighed down” by debt, according to a survey by LendingTree. It’s no surprise that a majority of consumers share this sentiment considering that the Federal Reserve Board (FRB) says that Americans collectively owe a total of over four trillion dollars in debt as of August 2020 (that’s $4,123,499,210,000, to be precise).
Between mortgage loans, auto loans, student loans, home equity lines of credit, credit cards, personal loans, and more, Business Insider reports that the average American has $51,900 in debt.
Naturally, many people want to pay off their debt as quickly as possible. Once you are done making those hefty monthly payments, you can use your money to work for you instead of sending it out the door to your lenders.
If paying off debt is one of your financial goals, then this article is for you. We’ll be breaking down two of the most popular and effective ways of paying off debt: the debt snowball and the debt avalanche.
The Debt Snowball Method
The “debt snowball” strategy was popularized by Dave Ramsey and it is perhaps the most well-known technique for paying down debt.
How the Debt Snowball Works
The process of the debt snowball method is relatively simple. Here’s how it works:
Keep making the minimum payments on all of your debts. Take a look at your budget and see if you can free up some funds by cutting spending or increasing your income. Send as much money as you can toward your smallest debt until you have completely finished paying off that debt. Once you have paid off your smallest debt, direct the money that was previously assigned to paying off that account to the next smallest account. Repeat this process for each of your accounts in order of lowest to highest balances until you have no more debt!
Pros of the Debt Snowball Method
The debt snowball plan is not necessarily the most economically efficient, as we will discuss below, but there is a reason why it is still one of the most popular ways to gradually pay off debt.
The “debt snowball” strategy is the most popular and statistically the most successful method for paying off debt.
You get to enjoy the satisfaction of “small wins” as you pay off your lowest balances.
The effectiveness of the debt snowball approach lies in behavioral psychology rather than mathematical calculations.
When you use your resources to tackle your least intimidating debt first, it won’t be long before you can celebrate a small victory, and then another, and then another. This provides encouragement and motivation to keep going, which is a vital factor in the long-term sustainability of your plan.
You can quickly make progress on freeing up cash flow to direct toward other debts.
Every time you knock out a small debt, you can use the money that you were putting toward that bill to attack the next one, increasing your momentum with each debt that you finish paying off.
The debt snowball has the highest success rate.
Many financial experts recommend the debt snowball option because statistically, consumers are more likely to stay on track with their goals when they use the snowball approach, which is due to its powerful psychologically motivating effect.
Cons of the Debt Snowball Method
You will pay more in interest charges.
With the debt snowball option, since you are attacking your debts in order of their outstanding balances without considering their interest rates, it is likely that you will end up paying more in interest than if you were to work in order of the debt with the highest interest rate first to the debt with the lowest interest rate last.
It will likely take longer to pay off your debt.
Similarly, since you will be starting small and paying more money in interest overall, it could take longer to become debt-free than if you were to use a mathematically more efficient method.
The Debt Avalanche Method
The debt avalanche method is technically the faster and more economical approach to getting rid of your debt.
The debt avalanche, on the other hand, is all about the numbers. This path aims to reduce the amount of interest you pay so that you can pay off your debt faster and pay less money overall.
How The Debt Avalanche Works
The debt avalanche is very similar to the snowball strategy. The only difference is the order in which you pay off each debt. The process follows these steps:
Keep making the minimum payments on all of your debts. Send as much money as you can toward the account that has the highest interest rate. Keep doing this until the account is paid off. Take the money that was going toward that account and add it to your monthly payment toward the account with the second-highest interest rate until you eliminate the balance on that debt. Repeat this process until your debt is gone!
Pros of the Debt Avalanche Method
Without the psychological motivation of “small wins” at the beginning, the debt avalanche plan tends to be less effective because it is harder to stick to than the snowball method.
You will pay less in interest.
Since you are tackling the debts with the highest interest rates first, you will be able to wipe out the most expensive debt more quickly than if you were to prioritize the size of the balance instead.
The debt avalanche helps you get rid of your debt sooner.
Again, starting with the highest interest rates means you won’t have to deal with those high interest charges continually piling on as you pay off other accounts. Less interest means a lower total amount owed, so you could reach your goal faster with this method.
Cons of the Debt Avalanche Method
It might take a while to feel like you are making progress.
With the debt avalanche, you may not be starting with a small debt, so you might not get the chance to celebrate some small wins early on that you could get with the snowball approach. This is especially true if your higher interest rate debts are also your accounts with high balances. It could take a long time to finish paying off just one account.
It doesn’t account for emotions about money and debt.
While the debt snowball is meant to keep you going by providing quick emotional boosts, the debt avalanche focuses purely on the numbers. Calculations of how much you could save on interest may not be as exciting or motivating as the prospect of knocking out smaller accounts.
The fact that people tend to have strong feelings about money is not necessarily accounted for in the debt avalanche plan.
The debt avalanche is harder to stick to long-term.
Due to the above factors, the debt avalanche method can feel discouraging to some consumers. If it’s hard to see the dent you are making in your debt, you are more likely to give up on your goals and land right back where you started. As we mentioned above, the debt snowball tends to have a higher success rate than the debt avalanche.
Snowball vs. Avalanche Debt Payoff Calculator
Perhaps by this point, it is still not clear which of these two methods would work best for you. One tool that may be useful in making your decision is a calculator that can show you how much you will pay back in total and how long it will take you to get out of debt with both methods so that you can compare the results side by side.
To use a snowball vs. avalanche calculator, such as this one from MagnifyMoney, you will need to have the following information on hand to put into the calculator:
A debt snowball vs. avalanche calculator can help you determine the best approach for you.
The balance of each of your accounts The APR of each account The amount of the minimum monthly payment you make toward each account The total dollar amount that you can afford to pay toward your debt every month
Once you input your information and get your results from the calculator, you will have a clearer comparison of the two methods in numerical terms.
A Hybrid Approach
A third option is to use a combination of the two strategies to get the benefits of each.
For example, you could first focus on accounts with significantly higher interest rates than your other accounts, such as credit cards, like you would with the avalanche method.
Then, once you are finished with those, you could proceed to pay off the rest of your accounts with lower interest rates in order of smallest to largest outstanding balances. Since these accounts will all have relatively low interest rates, this way, you can still hit some of those smaller goals without sacrificing too much money in terms of interest.
Another potential benefit to this approach is that focusing on paying off your credit cards first can help your credit score rebound sooner, since revolving debt balances are far more damaging to your credit score than installment debt balances.
Summary: What Is the Best Way to Pay Off Debt?
When it comes to paying off debt, there is no easy, one size fits all answer. The best path forward depends not just on the nuts and bolts of your finances, but also your personality, behaviors, and motivations.
The debt snowball is a popular option that works well for many because the quick feeling of success each time you pay off a small debt can help keep you inspired to stay on track. The downside of this method is that you could pay more in interest and spend a longer period of time chipping away at your debt.
If you would rather minimize interest charges and speed up the process, and you don’t need those psychological boosts, then the avalanche method may work for you. However, keep in mind that not everyone has the discipline to stick with the debt avalanche for as long as it takes to see results.
You can also get creative and modify or combine the two approaches in a way that makes sense for your financial situation and your personality.
In addition, your debt payoff plan—no matter which method you choose—will only help you if you commit to getting and staying out of debt. If you are still spending too much and accumulating more debt, then you won’t get anywhere, even with the most powerful debt payoff strategies.
Ultimately, the best way to pay off debt is to choose a plan that you can stick to. The most important thing is to be able to reach your destination of becoming debt-free, regardless of which path you choose.
We have talked before about setting financial goals for 2021. Given the difficult year that was 2020, it seems likely that many people will set New Year’s resolutions around their financial well-being. Because your finances are so important, you will want to make sure that you set yourself up for success and do not struggle to gain traction. The key to hitting your financial goals is to have a financial plan in place that gives you the structure you need to be successful. Here are some suggestions for how to do just that.
Clearly Define Your Goal
The first step is to define your goal. Be clear about exactly what you want to achieve. Again, this goes back to the framework that your goals should be SMART. As a reminder, that means they should be:
Specific Measurable Achievable Relevant Time-based
As an example, don’t make a goal “to pay off debt.” Instead, make a goal to pay off a specific number of credit cards (like three credit card debts). Or even better, make a goal to pay off an exact amount (say, $10,000 of your debt). Having this clarity will give you a good vision for exactly what you want to achieve, and that will determine the steps you need to take to get there.
Think about Reverse Engineering Your Goal
Sometimes when you are preparing goals, it can be helpful and motivating to look at examples of what others have done.
One of the most famous examples of goal setting and achievement is the first moon landing. In 1961, President Kennedy announced the goal that America would put an astronaut on the moon by the end of the decade. At the time of this bold goal, no American had spent more than 15 minutes in space!
This was a lofty goal by all accounts, though it probably fit nicely into the SMART framework. Importantly, it was a clear goal with a set timeline. This meant that everyone working toward it—mostly the brilliant folks at NASA—could develop the steps required to reach the goal. Starting with the end result—the goal—they could work backwards and determine each piece that would need to be in place in order to be successful. They were successful, and the rest is history.
You can approach your goals like this too. Using the goal to repay $10,000 in debt is again a helpful example. First, make sure there is an end date for the goal. Let’s say it’s feasible to pay it off in one year. Then your goal would be to “pay off $10,000 in debt by the end of 2021.” What steps or sub-goals would you need to achieve this goal? Maybe it’s that $7,500 should be paid off by October, $5,000 should be paid off by July, and $2,500 should be paid by April.
That’s a simple example, but the concept can be applied to many goals. When you start with the end result, two things happen. First, you begin to visualize your success, because you are beginning with the assumption that your goal is completed. This can give you a huge psychological boost. Second, you can identify the steps that will be necessary to reach the end goal.
Put Pen to Paper
As part of your financial plan, you should write down each financial goal you have. Then, list out the various sub-goals you will need to achieve along the way. There are many different ways you could write this down to map it out. If you want to see some great examples, and access free templates, you can check out this post on goal trees from a financial independence blogger.
You will need to put more in writing, too. Just putting your goals on paper and getting organized with what you hope to accomplish probably is not enough for most people. You will also need to put your current financial situation into writing—in other words make a budget.
This is the most critical part of a financial plan, because it will reflect your day-to-day reality. Budgeting at the beginning of the year is an especially helpful exercise because it allows you to review the previous year’s expenses across all spending categories and provides the chance to plan for the upcoming year. This is the perfect opportunity to make a plan for reducing your spending. You will likely find categories that provide opportunities to make cuts and spend less than last year.
Making these cuts—and keeping up with them all year long—may even be sub-goals toward your larger financial goals. Some cuts can be made at once, like reducing a monthly bill such as when you cut out cable. Others will be ongoing cuts throughout the year, such as reducing your grocery budget. Reductions to your spending that occur time and time again throughout the year could be listed in your financial plan as weekly or monthly sub-goals, and your budget will allow you to check in frequently to see how you are doing.
There are Many Tools to Help
You can make your financial plan with literal pen and paper, or use some of the many digital tools available. The NFCC has a helpful budget planner that would be a great start. There are many sophisticated budgeting and financial planning software programs that can help, too. Think carefully before paying for such a service. While that may be helpful, it’s also a cost that will add up over time. And budgeting manually may be a better alternative because it forces you to take a more critical look at the numbers.
Whatever you decide, the important thing is to keep track of your goals, break them into sub-goals when needed, and budget each month. Taking these steps will put you well on your way to achieving your 2021 financial goals. If you need more assistance, remember that the NFCC is here to help.
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